What Makes Victorian Wines So Great?

Usually talk of trips to Australia conjure-up visuals of sunny beaches, rugged outback and Nicole Kidman. We very rarely think of Australia as a cool-climate continent, with low to moderate temperatures, and plenty of rainfall. However, when it comes to wine, not all Australian regions are equal. Sure, you have the Barossa Valley and Margaret […] The post What Makes Victorian Wines So Great? appeared first on The Wine Sleuth.

One Block Shiraz 2014


A pair of Yarra Shiraz (both 13%) from One Block. On the left - Glory. The image like a beetroot hand axed. . . Deep in colour and scent, mulberries, a bristle of alcohol and black cardamon. Full and warm, for a moment cream and vanilla, it's more diffuse and tubby than expected.

Yellingbo. The gem more like a lozenge. . . A damp, luxurious nose - black currant and a hint of flint and smoulder. It seems sweeter and broader. . . like burnt toffee.

La Maison Syrah ‘When the devil takes his horns out’ 2016


Yarra Valley, Shiraz. Diam. $A35.

No words on the label, but from my order history and the iconography I deduce. . .

I prefer this to the last bottle (an 88 vs a 92) the shape and flow seems more convincing. . . Deep; spice, stone and fruit in harmony. Green pepper and for a fleeting moment - curry leafy and smoulder. A milky, creamy core, but it feels less abrasive and the tannins are silky. It seems more aerodynamic. . .

An unrelated but recently refreshed tasting note.

One Block Moonlit Forest Syrah 2016


13%. Diam. Yarra Valley. $A25.

On a whim (after seeing an Instagram post) I decided to purchase six bottles of wine from this small Yarra Valley producer. This bottle complete with naked nymphs was the cheapest. . . I love the packaging, each bottle has a clever label, the more expensive and older bottles are numbered and signed by the maker - Jayden Ong.

Suave and deeply scented - musk and skins, spice and mulberries. . . gum leaf. . . I keep thinking there's a milk chocolate edge, but it's far more assertive and stern. A wine of sinew more than comfort. . . Inky slightly smudged tannins.

Small Miracles at Taco Quetzalcoatl

Margarita Galindo Gallardo, who moved to Australia from Mexico and spent years saving up to open her own restaurant, opened the taqueria three years ago in a quiet suburb.

Joshua Cooper ‘Spring’ 2017


Macedon Pinot noir, 13%, Diam.

Minimal sulphur dioxide, the liquid is cloudy and there's a fine rim of CO2 as the wine settles in the glass. Stems, roots and earth, ginger more than fruit. A whiff of game, once the opening distraction of spritz settles it's nimble and unpolished. A short term bottle, there's already a hint of mouse by nights end.


Fathers milk 2017


Scary Gully, Adelaide Hills. 11.5%. Pinot noir. Cork. Approx $A75. 1172 bottles made.

An awkwardly named neighbourly collaboration between Gentle Folk Wines and Ochota Barrels - made from the loose berried rot resistant Geisenheim clone. It's slow to open; dusty and dark, brooding. In juxtaposition it's curiously creamy with cherry cola and confection.

A trainspotter's wine. It's interesting to see whose hand is more perceptible - from my small sample size - it seems more like an Ochota Barrels wine - the nose more dirt than fruit and in the mouth atypical with unexpected texture.

Day 2 dregs - left unpreserved and sealed only with its original cork - it's more convincingly unified and more traditionally appealing.

Manon Pino 2017


Forest Range, Adelaide Hills. 12%. Cork. Approx $A35.

A very primary and quite primal pinot noir; earth and roots, the most geosmin scented wine I've had for some time. . . rhubarb, spice and smoulder. Spritzig to open, beet juice and grape skins, musk. . . very pert, quite skeletal but certainly not green. Challenging, but rewarding.


Momento Mori Nosiola 2017


Diam. 9.3%. Nosiola. Gippsland.

Cloudy with no additions and few subtractions. According to the book - Nosiola is an Northern Italian grape, with the name possible coming from nocciola - hazelnut. The wine in questions is pert and zesty, green apple crunch, musk and florals and for me at least - almond meal more than nocciola. A sour salty bite, more a nibble than a chomp - crisp, playful, with a slightly waxy, goats curd finish.

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