Knappstein Enterprise Cabernet 1998
Clare Valley, South Australia. Cabernet sauvignon, Malbec 3%. Cork. Cellar.Last tried as a 9 year old, this seems unchanged. It still smells and feels like a Clare red. It's sharp with blackcurrant, eucalyptus and bay leaf. There is something bushy and...
Petaluma Coonawara 2000
12 years is not a long time to live, but I've slept rough, at the feet of a wino, under a desk laden with books and wires, corks and bottles. In a box with strangers I've been waiting. . . I still smell of blackcurrant and herbs and the warmth of my bi...
Domaine Lucci Sauvignon blanc 2011
Adelaide Hills, South Australia. Sauvignon blanc. 12.5%. Diam. Approx $A25.Last year I tried a trio of pinot noir (1,2,3) from the maker, all interesting wines with distinctive labels and personalities, though once on the tongue they all seemed fleetin...
Bindi Block 5 Pinot noir
Macedon, Victoria, Australia. Pinot noir. 13.5%. Diam. Source: Cellar.I liked this so much when I first tried it, I've been reluctant to open another bottle. What if it fell short of expectations? Like the books and films I liked when I was a younger m...
Toolangi Reserve Chardonnay 2007
Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia. Chardonnay. 14.2%. Screwcap. Approx $A65.I spent the afternoon sniffing at curry leaves, my mother in law has a pair of small trees growing unsupervised in her front yard and I'm fond of the scent. It's something I de...
Domaine A Cabernet sauvignon 2005
Coal River, Tasmania, Australia. Cabernet sauvignon. 13%. Cork. Approx $A60.Like its less esteemed Stoney Vineyard sibling this has a prominent nose and a supple body. Cassis and more cassis. It's bright and clear, slightly sweet before fine firm tanni...
Wantirna Estate Amelia Cabernet Merlot 2009
Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia. Cabernet sauvignon, Merlot. 12.7%. Diam. Gift.And so the Holiday drinking begins. . . First a few glasses of the Eric Rodez Cuvee des Grand Vintages (Ambonnay. 1993, 1995, 1996, 1998, 1999, 2000 & 2002. Approx $10...
Nine Rieslings Have I Lately Liked
In these egalitarian times, we don’t often speak of what were once called the “noble grapes,” because such a hierarchical scheme would imply that grapes omitted from that brilliant roster were somehow inferior. A generation ago, however, the term was common among writers about wine and commentators on the wine industry. Generally, six grapes were...
McHenry Hohnen Calgardup Brook Chardonnay 2010
Margaret River, Western Australia. Chardonnay. 13.5%. Screwcap. Approx $A35.I first tried this two months ago, at the cellar door, a 30ml taster which reminded me of blood orange and pith, though of course it tasted of much more and any suggestion of o...
Pierro Chardonnay 2009
Margaret River, Western Australia. Chardonnay. 14%. Screwcap. Approx $A65.The quality and appeal are obvious, but even so, I'm not sure I'd want to drink something like this too often; big bones and dangerous curves, it's delicious, but only in small d...
Lake’s Folly Chardonnay 2010
Hunter Valley, NSW, Australia. Chardonnay. 13.5%. Screwcap. Approx $A60.Fleshy and slightly sweet, it tastes uncoiled and abundant. Flint and peach skin, a prickle and bustle to the nose along with haystacks and spiced oak. Broad, rich and sweeter than...

