What I Want Wine to Be, Part One


This post is by Fredric Koeppel from Bigger Than Your Head


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We learn by experience, whatever the field or range of sensation. I started reading about wine and tasting wine seriously around 1980 and was launched into a career as a wine writer and reviewer in July 1984. It’s an interesting phenomenon that these almost 40 years inevitably broadened my acceptance of a wide swath of wines, grapes and regions as well as narrowed my focus of preferences and what is amenable to my palate. For example, while a great chardonnay can be a noble, even a sublime drink, I will choose almost any white wine other than chardonnay for dinner, whether at home or at a restaurant. I don’t encounter many white Burgundies, so the blame doesn’t rest there, but I’ll say that California chardonnay — so often over-oaked, stridently spicy, tropical and dessert-like — spoiled my taste for the grape. Likewise, I can’t tolerate the level of oak and …