Penfolds Grange 1996

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Warm and effusive, this seems hardly more than adolescent in development. Deep with menthol and spice, soft leather and raisins. A PX soaked Christmas pudding nose. . . Terrific structure, even to this hard to please observer. . . Super balance of size and well rounded tannins.

Context – the 15th or 16th bottle of the night, proceeded by a pair of St Henri – a very cuddly and compelling 2012, and a stern but softening 2002.

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